Wednesday, 28 December 2011

The time has come to sharpen

At the end of last winter my picks and crampons were pretty blunt after lots of scratching around in Scotland, Norway etc. so it’s time to get them in tip top shape ready for the first big routes of the winter.
Most of the routes I end up climbing are mixed routes and so I need nice sharp points on my picks to get the accuracy needed for those tenuous hooks. A decent big file and some elbow grease are needed to get them just perfect, and making sure you keep the teeth all individually sharpened. For ice pitches a narrowed super sharp pick is the perfect tool for the job, and the teeth aren’t so useful, in fact they tend to make it harder to get the pick out when you’ve really whacked it in.

Poor old pick - looking a bit blunt!
Blunt pick
 When using a file - use even flat stroke and in strokes away from the body in one direction - this is how it is designed to be used and will give the best results.The finish you are looking for is smooth and mirror-like. If you use the file in different directions this is impossible.

First start by sharpening the tip of the pick. You are aiming for an angle of the tip as shown in the picture below. If the angle is too steep the pick will prise off the hold when you are using it. Imagine the tip of the pick and handle are both touching the file/wall. 

Next step is to file the edges of the tip - see picture below. Try and aim to get an angle of about 45 degrees.

Then file the underside of the pick - first the tip as below. Make sure you end up with an angle on the point - ie do not file it to be flat or you won't be able to use the tip of the pick on small holds.

Next file the sides of the teeth - again at around 45 degrees - super useful when using you picks on ice as it gives you a narrow profile pick. See below.

Repeat this process along the top of the pick - as shown below.

The finished profile!! Not perfect but way cheaper than a new set of picks!

Picks can be sharpened a few times but will eventually get too short - and then it's time to get a new set. Hope you find this useful - a few people have been asking me lately what I do with my picks so this is my best attempt at showing you what I do - without hiring a film crew!!

Happy New Year

Saturday, 24 December 2011

Merry Christmas...

Just a quick message to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
All the very best for 2012.

Thanks for reading the blog and I'll keep you updated as to the seasons goings on as much as possible.

Thanks also to Mountain Equipment for keeping me and Santa warm, Lyon Equipment for keeping me safe with kit from Petzl, La Sportiva, Beal and Julbo.

And also an extra thank you to Ruth for keeping me sane and organised!

Have a good one everybody (except the nasty b*****d who smashed the van window - you can have a s***t one!)

Friday, 23 December 2011

Some inspiration on a miserable wet day!

Looking forward to my trip out to Canada in February - it has to be better than the current ming-fest that is the UK.
Fingers crossed for some cold weather soon.

Monday, 19 December 2011

Whilst the cat's away.......

Andy has headed off down the wall for some more training - you would think 3 days out on the hill climbing in Wales would be enough??? So whilst I have chance here it is the bit of film you've all been waiting for.......... exclusive footage of the studio photoshoot that took place last thursday. Lukasz and Andy - what a pair!!! I think Andy is doing an impression of Stevie Haston.

Oh and speaking of photoshoots.......good time to get a plug in for Lukasz's photography workshop at the end of January - Andy is the star model this was just for practice! Check out this link for more info and to book your place.

Sunday, 18 December 2011

Another day...another winter route or two.

Today I headed out with the infamous Mark 'Baggy' Richards, newly appointed pro partner with Mountain Equipment and established guru of Welsh Winter Climbing. Check out his blog for news all winter and probably some more about today!
Baggy decided that it would be a good bet to head up to the north face of a mountain somewhere in Wales. We climbed a couple of new routes, which were combinations of some existing (unstarred) rock routes. The first route had a first pitch up groove with 'hero hooks' all the way with bomber gear until the tricky exit about V, 6. The second pitch was a proper squirm chimney - Baggy's pitch - most entertaining watching his feet disappearing - not so entertaining getting the rucksack through it - ungradeable!!

The second route followed a groove to start at about IV to a big bay. The main pitch went up a crack in a steep slab - more hero hooks, but a bit steeper than the previous route probably around V, 7. The route finished up a enjoyable corner at about grade III.

Grades are a guess - and I'm under strict instructions from Baggy not to reveal exact locations as he's got his eyes on some more lines!!

Elsewhere, Matt and Adam Hughes headed over to Clogwyn Du, and made an ascent of Traversty - after a couple of falls from Adam on the first pitch, Matt took over and finished the pitch - good effort Stygall!
Calum was out with Ray Wood and after a false start one one route they did Pillar Chimney.
Pete Harrison was back on the project but still no send.

Adam finishing the second pitch

Saturday, 17 December 2011

At last a winter route!!!

Ruth not looking impressed!
Ok, I know I've been a bit slow getting my season started but finally it's begun.I headed over to Wales on Thursday eve with a hopeful weather forecast. Conditions are only vaguely climbable high up but Wales in soooo much closer than Scotland!
Yesterday I had a pretty rubbish day out with Ruth. We headed up to Craig Dafydd on beta from Matt Stygall who'd been in there in thursday and managed to climb a route. He'd said that the turf was frozen in places and not so frozen in others and after another cold night we had hoped that it would be better. Unfortunately this wasn't the case and as the routes depend on turf after a couple of false starts we retreated. Quite a long old walk up there, felt especially so, as you couldn't see very far and in felt like forever until we finally bumped into the crag. You arrive at the crag at the bottom of a route called Goliath an excellent looking ice pitch or two - not quite fat enough to climb but all there. If it stays cold could be a goer in a few days.

Today I headed out with young Calum Muskett. He had tried Traversty on Clogwyn Du last year and not managed to do the crux so was keen to get back on it. This time was a different matter, looking cool, calm and collected he made a stylish ascent, in less than perfect conditions - check out the ropes in the picture - the wind was howling!!

Setting off on Pitch 2
We had thought about the direct finish but with the weather conditions as they were we decided to stick to the original. Top route. Pete Harrison and Rob Pitt were also at the crag trying a new route, but no send, so that's all I'm saying, no pictures and no info!!! Think Pete is heading back there tomorrow to see if he can get i done, so more news from him soon.

 In other news Matt headed back up to Craig Dafydd today with Adam Hughes and they pulled a new route out of the bag.
Pitch 1. 4.Starting at the base of Helmand Province you climb up some turfy grooves onto a ledge, step right to a leftwards slanting turfy crack - climb that and continue to the base of the obvious crack. (40m)
Pitch 2. 7. Climbs the obvious crack to a ledge (possible belay) and then continue up a shallow chimney over the overhang to a ledge and block belays. (25m)
Pitch 3. 5. Climb the left on the 2 obvious grooves until a tricky step can be made across into the right groove (a bit bold), follow this groove until a step can be made around the arete  onto a ledge and then climb the short steep groove to an awkward finish - belay well back. (30m)

Top section of pitch 2
They called the route Siberian Kitten - with a nod to Greg Boswell. Pete Macpherson and Guy Roberston's route Siberian Tiger.

Matt on the crack of Pitch 2

Adam heading into the second groove of Pitch 3.

Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Tools but still no ice

Well it looks like winter is finally kicking off up in Scotland with some impressive early season ascents from young Greg Boswell. I am currently hanging out down in the Peak and trying to get as fit as possible for the pilgrimage north sometime soon. I was going to sneak off to Spain for a weeks sport climbing in the sunshine for the last flourish of summer but looks like that's not going to happen now so maybe it'll be a chance to get up north?
Tim on Tumble in the Jungle
I headed over to Wales for a couple of days this week hoping some conditions would come in, and had a brilliant session at White Goods with Tim Emmett on the way - that boy knows how to be prepared at the crag - espresso pot + stove, iphone + awesome mini-speaker, spare belay jacket that Mac got to use as a blanket and the best pair of retro fruit/comp boots I've ever seen!!

Even Ruth got hold of some tools on Jaz
On Power Pact - in the gathering gloom!

Always entertaining to hang out with Tim and his endless enthusiasm. Got a great workout with a few laps of Jaz and Tumble followed a burn on Power Pact down at the other sector - not climbed at this cave until now - steep!! And a bit loose in places, I was pretty keen to get the 3rd bolt of Power Pact clipped before committing tools to the big flakes!.

Welsh winter conditions were not in force, the predicted low temperatures didn't appear - just some gales and a whole lot of rain! Did go for a wander around yesterday and think I might have spied some new lines to have a go at, so hopefully it'll start to build some conditions over the next few days/weeks and I'll get chance to go and get them ticked.
Meanwhile - more training indoors until the next trip out.

Monday, 5 December 2011

Cheeky post

Just thought I'd sneak this picture in whilst Andy isn't looking!
Today he was on the turbo trainer coz it was "too cold to do anything outside"!!

 This was followed by a trip to the Foundry for a bouldering comp, which was also freezing but pretty good fun, and then a very exciting drive home over Winnats Pass - good job the car has winter tyres on or we'd never have made it back over!!

Looks like winter has arrived - Andy is currently checking out weather forecasts.......will there still be snow and conditions by the weekend??