Lofoten Islands

A couple of months ago Andy (and some other folk) got this email:

Subject: Lofoten winter 2011
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 13:17:37 +0100
From: Marius.Morstad
To:amac_turner 


Hello
Got you guys recomended from Ian Parnell, because you all where new route maniacs, the deal is one week in Lofoten free food and accomondation and boat transport to some off the more difficult spots to reach by traditional means, 20 foreign climbers and 20 Norwegian climbers, this is an elitist event so there is no sponsor tents or slideshows. Just climbing. Hope to see you there . mariusm

Lofoten invitational 2011
Norwegian alpine club invitees you to a climbing meet in the Lofoten islands with the purpose to go back to the roots, new routes, peaks that hasn't hardly been climbed on during the winter before, if lucky; good Scottish conditions, if unlucky; just conditions. Committing climbs where you have to find your way up and down on your own, little information available, approached by boat, Point of departure; at the shore in the morning, picked up in the evening, you would need to bring an adventures spirit, to be independent and self-sufficient, to be able to find your own objectives.
Facts:
Dates 28/2-6/3-2011
Place: Kabelvåg, Lofoten Islands , Norway

Now as you can imagine he was PSYCHED! 

With the Norwegian Alpine Club sorting out food (quite an expense I can tell you!), transport and accommodation, it was looking like a goer so I spent ages finding flights and booking them and then Mountain Equipment, bless their souls, said they'd help with flights aswell. What a result!

So off they went yesterday, Andy and Lukasz (can't wait for the pics) travelling together and meeting up with Nick Bullock and Pete Benson. They haven't had much information other than the email and a one line response to their messages saying they wanted to go along telling them they were in! So the collective was a bit nervous before they set off wondering whether they were going to arrive at some deserted airport in northern Norway. Luckily all went well and the last I heard late last night was that they'd been picked up and were being driven north..........into a zone of no communication it seems! Oh and it was lashing with rain - hope they haven't taken Fort William weather with them.

Andy has some of Mountain Equipment's 2011/12 winter kit with him - looks brilliant - mostly I'm waiting for the Jolly Green Giant suit photos - that's right a full, bright green, hard shell suit!
I'll keep you up to date if I hear anything.

What has he been up to then?

The last couple of days Andy has been out working with Jonathan and Rupert and not taking his camera out to play - which doesn't make for an exciting post!
Monday they headed for Stob Coire nan Lochan and quickly realised on the walk-in that so was everybody else and their dog. So Andy decided to go and check out the crags on the east face of Aonach Dubh instead, a useful venue when Lochan is busy. No-one else there - perfect! So they climbed Eastern Slant (III/IV,4) but as the guys were looking strong they did an alternative steeper top pitch which Andy reckoned was a bout V,VI. Made a bit more exciting by some poor snow just pulling over the top of the crag which resulted in Andy teetering about on his front points whilst removing his gloves and shoving them in his jacket and then crimping over the top!

Tuesday was a day for the Ben, and again with it being half term lots of teams out and about. Jonathan and Rupert had requested a Grade 6 experience so never wanting to disappoint they headed for Route 1 Direct, and climbed the first couple of pitches. The temperatures rose as the day progressed so, after abseiling off Route 1 it was a good opportunity to learn some skills taking adventage of some ice in Waterfall Gully to look at screw placement and abolokov building. However, when a lump of ice landed between Andy's shoulderblades he decided it was time to retreat!

The big news this week up north seems to be all about the annual "is it winter condition debate?". Andy had heard a report that people had been seen attempting Sassenach and whilst pleased to hear someone was trying to repeat the route was doubtful that it was actually in condition, so when this photo appeared on UKC and the ensuing thread, he was pretty gobsmacked by the blatant summer conditions! Yes it's really steep and doesn't get as plastered as some routes, but he'd waited and retreated from the bottom of the route on several occasions before making his ascent. The reports seem to say that the team pictured haven't completed the route and even if they had not sure they'd be brave enough to claim it?!!

Ouch!

Ruth spent a rainy afternoon in front of the TV yesterday watching the Track Cycling World Cup which was taking place in Manchester at the National Cycling Centre and told me to check this out - don't watch it if you are a bit squeamish!




 UCI World Cup 2011 - Awang's Splinter Update from British Cycling on Vimeo.

Disappointing week....

It seems the boys didn't choose the best week to be in Scotland, conditions have been far from ideal. Either too much snow, too much sun or lashing rain and warmth have thwarted any attempts on the routes they had in mind. So there has been quite a lot of walking and not a whole lot of climbing. Some great pictures on Lukasz's blog  from the last week - none of which involve climbing! Also have your say on the two Cathedral shots - which do you like best?


I, on the other hand have just come back from a mini break to the Costa Blanca where conditions were perfect! You can imagine how that has gone down in comparison to the wonder of Fort William on a rainy day!

View from my Calpe apartment - better than Fort William high street??

Just in case you haven't seen - check out the Mountain Equipment blog too - some fine Lukasz shots of Andy in lycra - a highly entertaining afternoon of driving along with Lukasz hanging out the boot of his car whilst trying to avoid Andy crashing into the back produced these shots.
 "Andy, we need to do it again, in all these shots you are smiling, it needs to look like it's hard work." Lukasz Warzecha.
"That's not smiling. it's grimacing!" Andy Turner
Needless to say the artist got his way and it definitely looks more like a grimace.

Andy is now working for 3 days with Jonathan and Rupert - think they were heading into Lochan, I'll keep you posted on what they get up too.

Back up north...

Andy has headed back off up the M6 and is once again on the hunt for some routes. He is climbing with Nick Bullock for a couple of days and Lukasz is also around in case there are some top photo opportunities. Today was a wasted walk into the Buchaille, with warm soggy snow they decided that it wasn't worth getting to the bottom of the crag. It seems they have basically been on a hut tour, a brew stop at the SMC hut under the Buchaille and then a walk up to the CIC Hut on the Ben for another one and a look at what's going on up there.

Lukasz has some photos on his blog - I particularly like the one of Andy sharpening his tool!
Check them out here.

NO MORE HURTING



Launching up the steep headwall.
Photo: Phil Dowthwaite

 

As reported yesterday by Ruth, I made the 2nd Ascent of The Hurting with Phil Dowthwaite.

Sitting here writing this now I'm still feeling the hurt of the 4 hour ascent.

The Hurting originally climbed by Dave Macleod and given XI,11 way back in 2005 was quickly labelled the hardest trad mixed climb in the world, taking the line of a summer E4 6a. It was said to have poor protection and have ground fall potential from the first 30-40ft, as well as hard steep technical climbing on the head wall.

That's more than enough beta to keep the queues away!

The routes been on my radar for the last couple of years and finally last winter I summoned the courage to walk upto the bottom of it. These dreams were quickly crushed when upwards progression ground to a halt in the first 20ft. Stopped by heavy snow and ice conditions, as well as a less than adequate rack (never trust your mates to pack a rack), I decided to retreat and climbed back to the ground keen to keep the onsight for another time. What it did do was give me some knowledge of the type of climbing involved.

This winter in the east the winter again kicked of with all its might, masses of snow everywhere and once again made hard mixed routes questionable. It was only whilst I've been working up here for the last week for Mountain Equipment and Cotswolds that I've managed to keep a eye on things. So on our first day off myself and Donald King decided to head to the corries.

Standing at the bottom of the route knowing what lies ahead its hard to describe what's going through your head. As it turned out the bottom part of the route was perfect, giving nice neve and ice on all the sloping ledges which you  needed for your axes. Fully aware of the consequences of a fall from any point in the first 30ft I managed to shuffle across the various small ledges making slow scary progress finally ending up on a comfortable ledge. This gives you time to take in your surroundings and comtemplate your fate.

Above here is some wild briding to finally give you some good gear. This was the point the wheels were quickly about to fall off. Looking ahead you can see what looks like a good ledge under the roof which makes a good target to aim for, unfortunately I was a bit to eager to get there and using a poor torque in a crack quickly found myself hanging on the end of the rope. Luckily I'd followed Tim Neills advice of falling off only when it's sensible!

Lowering to the ground you're then stuck with the decision of whether to get on back that day. 20 mins later we were walking out, decision made. Thanks to Donald for abseiling for my gear - not easy with the wind blowing him across the crag.
Feeling really jaded after a few more days work (I'm not used to it) Phil agreed to belay me in return for me holding his ropes the following day. So with a combined age of 85 we headed back to the gorms.
Not feeling the love on the drive over we swung by the Mountain Cafe in Aviemore for a coffee and some breakfast. This gave us the much needed boost for the walk in eventually arriving at the base of the route at 12 O'clock. A definitely continental feel the day so far.

Somewhere in the murk!
Photo: Phil Dowthwaite

Launching off up known ground was not as easy as first expected. Having kicked off all the useful ice the other day I now had to rely on the picks on the rounded granite. It took about an 1 1/2 hours to get back to my high point  and that's where the fear suddenly set in. Not so much about taking the fall again, but wondering whether would I have the balls to climb to this point again if I did fall. Taking a deep breathe I slowly stepped out onto the steep featureless wall. Getting the same torque as that let me down earlier in the week I managed to seat it better before quickly finding another good hook and a small wire. Now totally committed the above ledge beckoned. Hoping it would be flat with good neve I tentatively reached for it only to find a thin layer of ice and a 30 degree sloping ledge. Trying to keep calm I managed to insert myself under the roof. Finding good hooks gave a short respite and chance to gather my thoughts for the steep headwall above. Reaching out on straight arms to get a look my heart sank. The first 15ft all seemed to overhang. I was just praying for good hooks. After what seems like an age,  it was time to confront the thing head on. Finding some good placements over the roof I quickly turned on the boosters and fully went for it. The cracks were fully choked with ice which gave good placements and pushed me on, keen to get through the steepness with all guns blazing. Reaching the next resting place I looked down at the last runner, way down under the roof and the arms suddenly got very heavy. Above it became a frantic digging and chipping mission to find placements. After 15mins I managed to excavate enough ice to try and get a cam in only to for it rip out. The next 5mins were then spent blowing on the rock trying to melt the ice for the cam to seat.

Things all of a sudden felt pretty serious. Thick cloud had now come in and I felt properly alone.

I ended up standing on the same hooks for ages trying to work out where to go. Everytime I thought I was moving for a good foot ledge I hit it with my axes only for the ice to fall away and leave a small rounded edge. All I wanted to do now was fall off, end the agony and go home. But having invested too much effort already things must go on. The top of the head wall was starting to back off now but the way ahead was completely barred by a sea of ice. Not knowing which way to go I decided to follow a vein of ice diagonally left. This eventually brought easy ground and a slump over onto the fiacail ridge.

Shouting down to Phil for a time check I discovered we now had a lttle over half an hour before it went dark. Phil was keen to 2nd so after a quick sprint up the ridge to get warm and hand me a belay jacket he tied in and had the time of his life doing some amazing climbing.

Not bad for a couple of old giffers.

Cheers Phil for hanging out for the belay, for bringing a headtorch which I forgot and for the photos - I owe you several!

The Hurting........ second ascent.

Hot off the press - in fact just got the text to say that the second ascent of The Hurting has been climbed today.
As you might have guessed Andy is up north and on a day off. No much detail yet will fill in some more later when I've spoken to him - but I think he's pretty chuffed!